Fiji
Lautoka, the sugar city is on the western side of Viti Levu, the largest island in Fiji.
These 332 islands in the Koro Sea are truly a holiday destination. Everyone greets you with “Bula”. We had heard of the recent riots in Suva but that is quite away from where we landed and we found the Fijians very friendly. This is the most multicultural population in the So Pacific. We visited the Garden of the Sleeping Giant which is an orchid garden started by Raymond Burr to preserve his own collection.
The most unusual invitation we have ever had occurred at the Shangri La resort where we were invited to join 4 other couples from the ship to renew our wedding vows bedecked with leis along the ocean. The minister wrote vows very applicable to our age group. It was 3 Americans, 1Scottish and 1English couples…so you can’t say it was just those crazy Americans. What fun that was.
Unfortunately we learned as leaving that someone we all knew from the ship had died that afternoon swimming at the same resort.
We’re off to New Zealand and tonight we have dinner with the Italian Captain who is married to a Maori Kiwi and we hope he will give us some inside information on what to see on the North Island.

Tonga
Our call here in Nuku’alofa was a contrast of extremes. This land which is the first to “see a new day” because of it’s location at the dateline and which is also known as the Friendly Islands completely surprised us. We walked in town in the am only to find whole blocks devastated and barren down to the concrete foundations. As we began to talk to a shopkeeper we got the whole store that on Nov 16th there had been riots and many Indian and Chinese shops had been burned down. The King died in Aug 2006 and all homes and buildings were draped in purple and black banners of mourning. We saw the lovely church and the modest Victorian home of the royal family. Yes, what we expected: the men were wearing the distinctive mats over their clothing and the women with the kiekie, a decorative waistband made of woven strips of pandanus.
Our treat was the Silversea cultural program that afternoon, not the normal tourist trap. The sister of the king attended and we were treated to a Tongan feast and the sweetest children dancing and playing their instruments.

Cook Islands
Here for a day, we had a great tour of the island of Rarotongo, which is the principal island of the Cook archipelago and dominated by a 2140 ft. peak. These are 15 islands spread over 2-mil km between American Samoa and Tahiti. With its fertile slopes of red soil and aquamarine lagoons, we loved it here and saw great bungalows that would be fun to return to. We tasted the sweetest papayas and learned the 6 stages of a coconut. This island is very different as it was very full of small farms growing everything. On this modern island every native is part of a clan and the land ownership is hereditary and others can only lease land. In 1901 it was annexed to New Zealand. It was from here that the 7 canoes left for Aotearoa, who became the ancestors of the Maori people in New Zealand. There are only 14,000 living here with another 75,000 abroad in NZ and Australia. We bought some frangipani oils and ended a great day with a drink with Keith and Fiona.

French Polynesia: Moorea, Pape’ete, Huahine, Bora Bora Feb.16th 2007
These islands spread across 2,000,000 square miles of the South Pacific is an area as large as the continent of Europe. The first explorer was English Samuel Wallis in 1767 but by 1880 the French expelled the British (they were busy elsewhere) and the islands became French including the Austral, Gambier, Marquesas, and Society Islands (Tahiti etc) and the Tuamotu atoll. These islands are very well kept. Except for Pape’ete which is a bustling port and congested city they are very laid back. We loved Moorea and Huahine which are sparsely developed and truly what we expected to find. Bora Bora is ringed with very expensive hotels and here we snorkeled in the gorgeous Blue Lagoon with the stingrays and black tipped sharks that are all quite tame. You could even pet the very soft and velvety rays. We didn’t get beyond “Bloody Mary’s” famous bar but heard that there was quite a bit of poverty here in Bora Bora. One night we had a fabulous Polynesian troupe onboard with fabulous music and dancers. A very hot but fascinating group of islands to visit.
The most amazing night Silversea could magically and secretly produce was laid before us as we left Huahine. They had replicas of many of the Gauguin paintings done in NYC that perfectly fit each window in the dining room ringed with gold frames and lots of hanging orchids.

SHIPS AHOY, yes today, Feb. 9th, we landed on Pitcairn Island just as Fletcher Christian did on Sept. 21st 1790 with 8 of the loyal crew from the Bounty and the Tahitian wives and children. They carried all their supplies up the steep hill and then burned the Bounty in the bay. The hid there for 24 years before being discovered by a British frigate. After climbing up the steep paved path we met up with the Scottish doctor who took us to the very top of the island on his 4 wheeler (not Bill) and also to his house. With 47 now residing on the island and 7 children in the school (other teens in school in New Zealand) it is a very isolated place. As you can see in the photo they came onboard 1st with 38 people and at least 100 bags of souvenirs to sell. It was like Filene’s basement in the Pacific. How thrilling this landing was although rough as we were not permitted ashore in Easter Isl.

Pitcairn Island

As we begin our journey on Silverseas’ SHADOW across the Pacific Ocean from Valparaiso, Chile to Auckland, New Zealand we hope you will enjoy some of our images and information we learn along the way.

We loved Santiago a very modern city with such varied new architecture with historic buildings right next door. We ate at the restaurant of a Bangor girl, Kenyon Shubert who grew up with our guys. She relocated here after law school and opened their very good vegetarian restaurant with two other Chilean women. It was so interesting to visit the house and museum of poet Pablo Nerunda.

Our first port is Robinson Crusoe Island where Selkirk was stranded for 4 years being rescued in 1708, the story for the book: “Robinson Crusoe”. It is inhabited by 600 people and 1500 fur seals nearby. We were able to go around the island in a small boat, thanks to our French friend, Paul. We had a great guide Pedro who lives there with his wife and 2 children. Their lobster season runs from Oct to March. A new industry on the island is the treasure hunter who is excavating (with financial support of a gentleman, Keiser, from Chicago) the last Spanish galleon treasure of $10 billion supposedly buried here. Also the Dresden sank offshore here in 1915. Back to the ship and 3 sea days before Easter Island and yes we did get to see the Super Bowl.

Boy what a day around Easter Island on Feb 6th as we could not land after the first tender went ashore with a sick woman. It was quite rough. However the captain was quite clever and he asked Sir Tony Wilson who is one of the lecturers on board to give a detailed description from the bridge as we circumnavigated the island and saw the Moais from afar.

Today we are planning a New England gathering as the Wilsons live 6 months in Vermont and there are 14 more of us northerners. It’s quite rough and raining today and it looks doubtful to get into Pitcairn Island tomorrow.